10 Things You Need to Know Before You Exfoliate Your Face

Some of us think we're too sensitive for a scrub. And if you're acne-prone, a peel just seems insane. But exfoliation can benefit every skin type.

"In addition to revealing fresh skin cells, exfoliating removes dead cells from pores, making them appear smaller," says Rachel Nazarian, MD, a Manhattan derm. Makeup also looks better, says Stalina Glot, an aesthetician at Haven Spa in New York City. "It's like sanding a wall before you paint." The other major perk: "Removing the buildup enhances your skin's ability to absorb everything else, from acne medicine to antiaging serum," says Dr. Nazarian.

Find the routine that's right for your type and get glowing.

1. My skin's dry. Will exfoliating strip it?

Not necessarily. In fact, flakes can inhibit the full penetration of moisturizer. In addition, "oil can get trapped and cause tiny, pimple-like bumps," says Glot. Your best bet: gentle chemical exfoliators (an AHA-rich serum dissolves bonds between dead cells) or a light facial scrub uses super-fine particles and vitamin B5, a total moisture bomb). Try one, immediately followed by a gentle hydrating lotion, every two or three days.

Weekly Treatment: Transform skin from dull to dewy with a Turmeric mask which will leave the skin brighter and glowier.

2. But I'm oily and acne-prone! Will I break out?

Stay away from rough physical scrubs, which can contribute to breakouts. Chemical versions—such as a face wash made with hydroxy acids like glycolic or salicylic —remove grime and penetrate oil to break down pore-clogging dead skin cells.

Weekly Treatment: Charcoal masks absorb excess oil, says NYC dermatologic surgeon Dendy Engelman, MD. Clay also does the trick.

3. I'm way too sensitive…right?

Gritty scrubs are definitely off limits, but most people can benefit from a mild, short-contact exfoliating product. Consider a cleanser or toner rich in fruit or plant enzymes, twice a week, to deep clean gently.

Weekly Treatment: Use a cool, wet washcloth in circular motions to loosen and sweep away dead skin cells.

4. What should I do for my normal skin?

Normal usually means combo—an oily T-zone and dry cheeks—which can benefit from the Goldilocks of exfoliators: baking soda. In a waterless, powder-cleanser form, it's easy to adjust the strength: Add less water for a stronger scrub (perfect for the T-zone) and more for a gentler one (ideal for the cheeks). Do this two or three times a week.

Weekly Treatment: Home peels are an option for your problem-free skin. Dr. Nazarian recommends starting with a glycolic-acid concentration below 10 percent and slowly working your way up to stronger products which help diminish fine lines and fade spots.

5. Should I exfoliate in the morning or night?

Either is fine, but if you use treatments at night like retinol, you may want to exfoliate before bed, as your skin will be more receptive once dead surface cells have been removed, says Dr. Engelman.

6. What if I have a bad reaction?

Use a 1 percent hydrocortisone cream on the area to reduce inflammation, says Heidi Waldorf, MD, a Manhattan derm. And switch to a gentle cleanser and moisturizer, like those from CeraVe or Cetaphil, until skin calms down.

7. Can't I just use my body scrub?

No. Body scrubs often have harsher, larger granules, made to even out the thicker, tougher skin below the neck.

8. Should I avoid my eye area?

Some exfoliators are specifically made for the delicate eye tissue. Always check the label, and never use a scrub.

9. Are microbeads bad for the planet?

The plastic pellets, often found in scrubs, go down the drain and can eventually pollute rivers, lakes, and oceans. In December, President Obama signed a bill into law that bans the manufacture of cosmetic products containing microbeads as of July 2017. Many major companies, such as Unilever, Procter and Gamble, Johnson and Johnson, and L'Oréal, have already eliminated or are in the process of phasing out the beads, opting for biodegradable, natural alternatives, such as rice, wax, and bamboo extracts.

10. Can I get a derm-grade peel at home?

The pros often use super-potent formulas, which require medical supervision. A close alternative: using a peel pad system. The cumulative effects can create a surface similar to a low-grade medical peel over time.