What Exactly is Vegan Leather?

The journey of ‘imposter’ leather has been a fascinating one. We dig deeper to understand what it is and how we can contribute to a sustainable and cruelty-free future by opting for leather’s vegan alternative.

17 December, 2020

Arture sources cork fabrics from the Mediterranean to create functional and sustainable products.

What is it?

Vegan leather is essentially the faux (or synthetic) cousin of leather, mimicking sheepskin or cowhide. According to PETA, more than a billion cows, sheep, alligators, ostriches, kangaroos, and even cats and dogs are slaughtered for their skin every year. The horns and tails of many of these animals are cut off without painkillers, and some are even skinned and cut apart while still conscious.
Vegan leather, however, is usually made from plastic-based polyurethane chloride (PVC) and polyurethane (PU). Over the years, ‘imposter leather’ has gone through an innovative journey—with people creating versions of it out of natural products like tree bark, cork, and pineapple leaves, among others. The technology, too, has got better and brands have managed to make it look almost like the real thing.

But is it Sustainable?

Vegan is possibly one of the most debated terms of our time. It’s a catchphrase, much like ‘green beauty’, to define anything that is not made from animal skin. With the world becoming more conscious and aware of animal cruelty, vegan anything, by contrast, comes with a halo. However, leather’s first alternative—PVC—was credited by Greenpeace as the “single most environmentally damaging of all plastics”. Through its lifespan, PVC releases toxic fumes including phthalates and dioxins (linked by the WHO to reproductive and developmental problems, and cancer).
So, its initial journey might have been animal-friendly, but it wasn’t eco-friendly at all! Cut to 2020, vegan leather is being created out of everything from fruits, plant materials, orange silk, mushrooms, mangoes, apple, and even food waste.

Then, should I be using it?

Do your research. Today, most brands claim to be vegan to attract buyers. However, do check if they have PETA’s Stamp of Approval—in fact, PETA’s India website has a whole list of brands that you can pick and choose from. Luxury brands like Stella McCartney (one of the first few to go completely vegan) have been open about how they create faux leather, and if you can’t find that info easily on Google, check the product description box on the brand’s website to understand more. In the end, demand creates supply, and responsible consumption will have a huge impact on our future.

Malai
Matt & Nat stands for material and nature, and the brand has been experimenting with recycled materials like nylon, cork, cardboard et al to create eco-friendly clothes and accessories.