How to pare back your 100-step skincare routine

Not every skincare product deserves a permanent spot on your bathroom shelf. In fact, some of the industry's most popular staples may be doing little more than adding an extra step to your routine. Take toners, mists, and essences, for instance. Despite their cult status, they often promise far more than they actually deliver. “It’s essentially fragranced water with a splash of alcohol, but marketed as something that closes pores or balances pH”, reveals expert dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. 

Most of us have probably used at least one of these at some point or the other. With the perpetual hype around dermatology, from Sephora kids to ballyhoo and beyond, we’ve successfully taken skincare from care to scare. In fact, experts are now calling it a “10-step hobby”.

The (rhetorical) question is: Do you really need those many layers before bed? Or gold flakes in your elixir with a routine that’s more into ASMR than dermatology? Perhaps, less is more. And beauty does not have to be skin deep. This time, we’re not recommending what to apply, but quite the opposite. Based on inputs from experts in the industry, here’s why and what needs to be edited out of stretched skincare routines.

From trend to end

Minimalism is key, according to Dr Kiran Sethi, double American board-certified skin and longevity doctor. “My primary goal isn't making your vanity look aesthetic for social media; it's preventing inflammaging (chronic low-grade inflammation that accelerates cellular ageing).” Dr Sethi, who is also the founder of Isya Aesthetics & Active Longevity, asserts that modern skincare is replete with trend-led redundant steps. “We’ve replaced basic dermatological principles with algorithmic FOMO.” 

For Dr Agarwal, exaggerated routines are a common occurrence amongst patients at her clinic. According to her, many elaborate skincare routines stem from K-beauty and J-beauty practices that were designed for different climates and skin concerns, but have since been adopted as universal routines through social media. “Content needs content. A creator with a five-step routine runs out of things to say in a month, and someone with a nine-step routine can make a video series out of it. More steps mean more products to talk about and more affiliate links, which means the incentive is never really pointed at what your skin needs.” 

Between tools and products, there’s a glossy gamut of overrated skincare sources in the market that we need not buy into.

Both Agarwal and Sethi dismiss viral tools such as jade rollers and gua sha as largely cosmetic. While they may temporarily reduce puffiness through massage or cooling, Dr Agarwal says there is no evidence that they sculpt the face, drain toxins or alter the lymphatic system. “Any temporary depuffing you see is usually from the massage and the cold surface, and not from moving toxins anywhere,” she adds. 

Meanwhile, Dr Sethi cautions against inexpensive at-home LED masks, explaining that many lack the power and wavelengths required to deliver the same skin benefits as professional LED treatments. “Professional LED phototherapy works because of specific power densities (J/cm^2) and targeted wavelengths (e.g., 633nm red, 830nm near-infrared). Low-powered, cheap plastic masks lack the intensity needed to penetrate deep enough into the dermis to trigger cellular energy (ATP) production.”

Products to shelve, not shelf

In terms of skincare products, scrubs are a unanimous “no” for both experts. “Physical walnut/apricot scrubs create microscopic tears in the stratum corneum, fueling post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)—a primary concern for melanin-rich Indian skin,” warns Dr Sethi. Dr Agarwal is also wary of brightening serums and face masks that rely on vague botanical claims without clearly stating the concentration of active ingredients.

Meanwhile, Dr Sethi points out how sheet masks hydrate for a mere 20 minutes and then turn into a heavy opportunity cost, as major sources of plastic waste. She is equally sceptical of 24K gold and gemstone-infused serums, noting that gold cannot penetrate the skin to stimulate collagen and may even trigger irritation in some people.

Back to the basics

Meanwhile, certain underrated skincare heroes are yet to make it to the algorithm. Dr Sethi mentions Azelaic acid (10-15 per cent). “It is an unsung hero for Indian skin tones. It calms rosacea, fades stubborn acne scars (PIH), controls sebum, and doesn't trigger sensitive reactions like stronger acids do.” For Dr Agarwal, it’s a good old moisturiser, strictly with ceramides. “It may not sound exotic, but actually it is doing more for your barrier than half the actives sitting next to it.” And of course, sunscreen is the holy grail, and both experts agree that the ideal amount is two full finger lengths for the face and neck.

Nailing your daily routine is a basic requirement that need not be this complicated. Dr Agarwal simplifies it, breaking skincare down into three simple objectives: hydrate, protect, and daily repair. For this, she recommends using a cleanser/face wash, sunscreen and a moisturiser. “A basic antioxidant serum containing vitamin C, ferulic acid, and vitamin E in the morning before sunscreen will serve the purpose of nourishing and protecting the skin”. 

For Dr Sethi, simplicity is key, especially in a tropical climate like ours- “Indian skin tends to be prone to hyperpigmentation, sensitive to heat-induced inflammation, and often deals with high environmental pollution.” She recommends a morning routine centred around protection and shielding, and an evening routine focusing on repair and renewal of the skin. The non-negotiable is a sunscreen, which must be “Broad-spectrum SPF 50, PA++++, with a fluid or gel formulation.”

Your minimal routine as per your skin type

For oily skin, Dr Sethi suggests avoiding heavy moisturisers and oils, while Dr Agarwal recommends using a lightweight, gel-based moisturiser and a good sunscreen, which will “benefit more than a five-product stack”.

Those battling dry skin can skip using strong exfoliating acids on a daily basis, according to Dr Agarwal. “Many of my patients with dry, sensitive skin end up using a glycolic or salicylic acid toner every night because an influencer swore by it and their barrier pays the price with redness and flaking. I recommend using it sparingly once every 10-15 days and preferably a polyhydroxy acid as an exfoliant.” Overscrubbing is another rookie error, as Dr Sethi points out. 

Vigilance and due diligence

To avoid falling for the next skincare gimmick (we all know it's coming), both experts recommend looking beyond the marketing. Dr Agarwal advises paying close attention to the language brands use, warning that buzzwords like "detox", "clinically proven" and "dermatologist-recommended" often sound more convincing than they actually are if they're not backed by robust evidence. As she puts it, "If a product promises to detox your skin, be cautious, as your skin does not accumulate toxins that need a special serum to remove."

Dr Sethi echoes this sentiment, urging consumers to be wary of flashy claims such as "cellular miracle", "stem cells in a bottle" and "instant facelift", which often lack scientific credibility.

Transparency is another giveaway. Dr Agarwal recommends checking whether brands clearly disclose the concentration of active ingredients, noting that a serum simply labelled as being "enriched with vitamin C" says very little about its efficacy. She also cautions against products promising dramatic results within days, adding, "If a product promises to outrun your own biology, it is usually just outrunning your good judgement."

Finally, Dr Sethi warns against what she calls "Sensory Real Estate"—products that rely on glitter, artificial fragrances, colour-changing formulas or novelty textures to justify their price tags rather than effective ingredients. She also recommends reading the fine print behind statistics like "92 per cent saw brighter skin", as these are often based on small consumer surveys rather than rigorous clinical trials.

Instead of marinating in a pool of excessive products and turning skincare into a side hustle with zero ROI, it's better to stay informed from the right sources. Though not every claim online is false, treading with caution is vital. After all, self-care is the agenda here, not shelf care.

Lead image: Pexels

Also read: Sunscreen is safe, so why are people still not using it every day?

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