From ancient kohl to cat eyes, here's how eyeliner has evolved over the years

If eyeliner is a key part of your daily routine, you’re probably all too familiar with the cycle of drawing, wiping, redrawing, blending, and perfecting it—sometimes more times than you'd like to admit. But have you ever stopped to wonder why eyeliner holds such a powerful place in beauty history? The answer could be a simple, "Well, my mom (or someone else) wore it, so now I do too.” But dig a little deeper, and you’ll realise it’s so much more than that. From warding off evil to making bold statements, eyeliner has done it all. Don't believe us? Then read on as we revisit its origins and see how we’ve come full circle with this iconic makeup essential.

It all started with Kohl

Egyptian kohl back then was made from a mix of lead sulphide and other minerals. On the other hand, kajal during the Bronze Age in India was made by burning wicks soaked in sandalwood paste or ghee mixed with crushed seeds and herbs on a copper plate. The formulas do vary across cultures, but the goal remained the same—to enhance your eyes, protect them from the sun, and, in some cultures, to ward off evil spirits. Over time, kohl became a symbol of beauty and even played a role in spiritual rituals. But let’s be real—those ancient formulas aren’t exactly safe for the eyes, no matter what they were led to believe back then. 

Thankfully, the eyeliner formulas today are way safer (no lead, phew!), but the idea remains the same. What started as a protective and spiritual ritual has evolved into the ultimate tool for self-expression—whether it’s a sharp cat-eye, a smudgy grunge look, or whatever vibe you're feeling. Over the years, eyeliner has had quite the evolution. Take a look. 

Cinematic glamour

The 20th century was when eyeliner truly came into its own. In the 1920s, silent film stars like Clara Bow and Greta Garbo made thick, bold eyeliner the ultimate glamour symbol, with pencil liners delivering rich pigment for that dramatic effect. By the 1940s, eyeliner took on a sleeker, more precise look—Audrey Hepburn’s iconic wing in Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Madhubala’s delicate flick in Mahal set the tone, thanks to the rise of liquid liners.

The 1950s embraced even more drama, with Marilyn Monroe’s bold cat eyes making a statement. This era also saw the rise of gel liners, loved for their smooth application, intense colour payoff, and effortless ability to create the perfect wing.

Big, bold, and colourful

The ’60s took eyeliner to new heights, with Twiggy making lower lash liner iconic by mimicking clumped lashes with eyeliner. Felt-tip liquid liners became a hit, making bold, graphic looks easier than ever. By the ’80s, everything was bigger, bolder, and more colourful—think heavy liner, neon shadows, and smudged pencils, while gel and cream liners amped up the drama even more.

The rise of grunge 

In the ’90s, eyeliner embodied the grunge movement’s anti-establishment spirit—smudged, messy, and effortlessly undone. It wasn’t about perfection; it was pure rebellion, etched in kohl.

The wild noughties

 

Eyeliner has come full circle in 2025 because after decades of dramatic cat eyes, bold graphic lines, and smokey looks, we’re back to basics—simple, chic, and effortlessly cool. The trend? Classic kohl on the waterline. Yes, the same kohl that ancient Egyptians used is back—just in a safer, modern formula.

It’s a nod to the past with a simpler approach to the iconic look.. From its spiritual roots to its stylish revival, eyeliner has had a journey, and this throwback trend proves that sometimes, the simplest looks are the most timeless. One thing’s for sure—eyeliner has an undeniable grip on us, and it’s not going away anytime soon.

All images: Getty Images 

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