Why exosomes might be the next big thing in anti-ageing

A few years ago, the market was inundated with news about retinol being the miracle ingredient for everything anti-ageing. More recently, there has been talk about peptides and ceramides being everything supple your skin needs. New ingredients pop up every week, and sure, you may think exosomes is just another one, but we suggest you put a pause on that thought. We spoke with industry experts who think otherwise, who are convinced that what were earlier ignored as waste cell material in the skin can actually take years off our face.

What are exosomes?

While we worried about pigmentation, cried over acne, and worked relentlessly with products, diets, pills, and treatments to fix it all, there were, all along, these little helpers on the inside working tirelessly to deliver messages to our cells to get off their bums and get the reparative and regenerative process going. “Exosomes are tiny, bubble-like structures secreted by almost all types of cells in the body. They’re packed with proteins, lipids, and genetic material like RNA. These molecules serve as messengers, triggering signals to the cells for collagen production, inflammation reduction, and skin cell repair, all of which are crucial for maintaining glowing, bouncy, and youthful skin,” says Dr Su, an MD in dermatology, venereology and leprosy, who is leading the research on exosomes in India. Exosomes efficiency rivals that of platelet-rich plasma (PRP), a popular treatment for cell regeneration, and means that unlike other treatments that target the surface of the cell, exosomes can merge with target cells and deliver deeper, better results. “And when paired alongside treatments like microneedling, they can go even deeper,” says Dr Chytra Anand, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Kosmoderma Clinics and SkinQ.

How does it work in skincare?

Want plump, glowing, flawless glass skin? Exosomes are for you. These little vesicles are going to get your skin to make more collagen, meaning tighter, bouncy skin; help get rid of old, tired skin (hello glow!); calm irritated, puffy skin; strengthen the skin barrier; and fade dark spots and patches. We’re running out of fingers! “Exosomes have the advantage of offering a broader range of benefits, promoting cell communication, healing, and regeneration on a molecular level,” says Dr Anand. And there’s evidence that exosomes can help promote follicle health and treat hair loss! With ongoing research, there is expected innovation in further efficacy of exosomes and new delivery systems, such as combination with filters, lasers, and other clinical treatments, which will only enhance their regenerative potential.

 Exosomes vs retinol, hyaluronic acid, peptide, and ceramide

“Exosomes offer a different approach to skincare. While retinoids stimulate cell turnover and peptides support collagen production, exosomes provide a more comprehensive solution by enhancing cellular communication and regeneration. Hyaluronic acid hydrates, but exosomes work at a deeper level, helping regenerate and heal the skin,” says Dr Su. This new-age, anti-ageing molecule has the ability to perform multiple functions—anti-ageing, skin firming, barrier repairing, hydrating, plumping, and anti-pigmentation properties—which sets it apart from all other actives.

How to pick the right one

Dr Su recommends looking for products with two per cent of exosomes. Even better if that two per cent is combined with other actives like hyaluronic acid and copper peptides. “Check for a specialised delivery system like the liposomal deep delivery system infused as a part of the formulation for deeper penetration and absorption,” she adds. Of course, clinical use of the ingredient is sure to produce quicker, more efficient results, but with the ingredient gaining momentum in the over-the- counter space, there are options available in both creams and serums that also offer significant results. “Immediately, you’ll see a visible reduction in inflammation. Visible improvements usually begin within a few weeks, particularly in terms of hydration, skin texture, and fine lines,” says  Dr Anand. Additionally, clinical studies show that exosomes can significantly improve skin regeneration and collagen production, leading to noticeable improvements in the overall appearance and health of the skin over time, in six to 12 weeks. We’re thinking, what’s 12 weeks to a lifetime of that youthful skin? This is definitely going on our “curious enough to check out now” cart.

 Lead image credit: Pexels 

This piece originally appeared in the January-February 2025 print edition of Cosmopolitan India. 

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