Why alpha arbutin deserves a spot in your skincare routine

There is no escaping the cosmetic jargon with this one, so let’s get it out of the way. Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone (a popular skin lightening ingredient), and a naturally occurring antioxidant and skin brightener that is found in bearberry, cranberry, and wheat. Think of it as an organic molecule that breaks down to make hydroquinone, which inhibits the formation of melanin—and this is the real important bwit—improving age spots, freckles, melasma, and post-inflammatory pigmentation. Alpha arbutin is the synthetic derivative of arbutin, and beta arbutin is the plant-derived form of it. While both work the same way, with targeted formulation, alpha arbutin is just stronger and more effective. “In fact, it is more effective than vitamin C in treating skin blemishes and pigmentation, and safer than hydroquinone,” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, a leading dermatologist and cosmetologist.

How does Alpha Arbutin work?

Alpha arbutin targets the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme that exists in cells called melanocytes (think pockets that produce melanin), working to reduce it. This reduction in activity means that it not only treats production but also helps prevent pigmentation from happening in the first place.

“Alpha arbutin functions similarly to hydroquinone due to its molecular structure, but with reduced irritation and melano cytotoxicity, it poses minimal irritation and sensitisation risk, making it a more tolerable alternative to hydroquinone,” says Dr Geetika Mittal, an award-winning cosmetologist and founder, Isaac LuxeTM.


Benefits of Alpha Arbutin

Improves uneven complexion: In case you missed it, with its tyrosinase action, alpha arbutin helps fade and prevent dark spots, leading to an even- toned complexion.

Fades scars: We’ve spoken enough about arbutin being the fairy godmother of dark spots, but it also effectively fades those pesky red-purple acne scars that remain long after a zit is gone.

Brightens skin: With the fast action of arbutin on the above two problems, skin brightening is a fringe benefit we can all sign up for with regular use.

Gentle and easy to use: There is little fuss with alpha arbutin, and unlike other brightening agents, it is less likely to dry and irritate the skin.

Offers sun protection: Are you tired of hearing all about the tyrosinase action? Well, thanks to it, arbutin also reduces skin darkening after prolonged sun exposure!


How to introduce it to your skincare routine?

Alpha arbutin can be used both in the AM and PM by anyone who is experiencing any kind of hyperpigmentation, including acne scarring, although following it up with a sunscreen in the day is a rule set in stone. “Start with a lower concentration, one to two per cent on alternate days for two weeks, and work up to about five per cent after four weeks for good results without irritation,” says Dr Agarwal. Dr Mittal also notes that those with extreme sensitive skin conditions like eczema or rosacea should consult a dermatologist before including the active into their routine. For anyone else, you’ve found your holy grail!

There are serums, moisturisers, even masks to choose from, although we recommend a targeted serum formula. “For even better results, combine it with ingredients that offer similar brightening effects, such as vitamin C, niacinamide, and kojic acid,” Mittal adds.

Our recommendations:

Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum, ₹1,400 (30ml) 

 

RAS Brightening & Anti-Pigmentation Advanced Booster Serum, ₹1,990 (30ml)

 

The Formularx Vitamin C Brightening Serum, ₹1,299 (30ml)

 

Asaya 2% Kojic Acid & 1% Alpha Arbutin Face Serum, ₹499 (30ml)

 

Dr. Sheth’s Ashwagandha & Alpha Arbutin Melasma Serum Cream, ₹499 (30g)

 

COSRX The Alpha Arbutin 2 Discoloration Care Serum, ₹2,150 (50ml)

 

The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Face Serum, ₹1,200 (30ml)

 

 

 

Lead image credits: Pexels 


This article originally appeared in Cosmopolitan India's January February 2025 issue.


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