The smart girl’s guide to buying SPF

Now that it’s widely accepted that sunscreen is non-negotiable, there’s another pressing question we need to answer: which SPF can you actually trust? The market is overflowing with options—each one louder, bolder, and claiming to be the best. But SPF was made to protect your skin. And when that protection is compromised—either by skipping it or choosing a sub-par formula—your skin takes the hit. Trust us, that’s a battle you don’t want to fight.

Not all sunscreens are created equal. And if your SPF isn’t doing its job, your skin is the one paying the price. When a sunscreen fails—either because it’s low-quality, poorly formulated, or just not right for your skin—it can result in everything from tanning and redness to irritation and sun damage. Subtle issues can often point to big problems underneath.

How to know your sunscreen isn’t working

There are some telltale signs to look out for when it comes to ineffective SPF.

“If you experience tanning or redness despite regular use, or if the product pills or breaks down quickly, that suggests poor formulation stability,” says Dr Anupriya Goel, Medical Director and Aesthetic Dermatologist at Berkowits Hair and Skin Clinic.

She also advises checking the label for certain certifications and ingredients: “If there’s no mention of broad-spectrum protection, no clinical trial data, or no key ingredients like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, Tinosorb, or Uvinul—that’s a red flag.”

Problematic ingredients to avoid

According to Dr Goel, the wrong ingredients can do more harm than good.

“Oxybenzone and octinoxate, for instance, are linked to hormone disruption and are banned in some countries because of their harmful effects on coral reefs,” she notes.

“Also, look out for alcohol denat high up in the ingredients list—it can be too drying for sensitive skin. And avoid fragrance-heavy sunscreens if you're acne-prone or have sensitive skin.”

Spray, stick, gel or powder—what works best?

Modern sunscreens come in many forms: gels, sprays, powders, sticks, and even makeup. But does format impact performance? Yes, say dermatologists.

“Spray sunscreen is convenient but often ineffective due to uneven application,” says Dr Nirupama Parwanda, dermatologist and founder of Zolie Skin Clinic.

“Gel-based formulas may feel light, but sometimes don’t provide enough oils for even UV filter dispersion. Stick sunscreens work for touch-ups in small areas like the under-eye, but can be patchy on the full face. Powders offer the least reliable protection and tend to wear off quickly.”

Can SPF makeup really replace your sunscreen?

Many of us rely on foundations, primers, and tinted moisturisers that claim SPF protection. But here's the truth: “The amount of makeup you typically apply isn't enough to deliver the SPF protection it claims,” says Parwanda. “You still need a proper, dedicated sunscreen under your makeup to get effective coverage.”

What to look for in an ideal sunscreen?

If you’re confused by the sheer number of options, here’s what dermatologists say are non-negotiable:

• Broad-spectrum protection (UVA + UVB)
• PA+++ or higher for UVA
• SPF 30 or more for UVB
• Cream or lotion-based for consistent application
• Non-comedogenic (especially for humid climates or acne-prone skin)

“A hybrid sunscreen—one that contains both chemical and mineral filters—is often the most effective,” says Parwanda. “That said, for people who are pregnant or have extremely sensitive skin, mineral sunscreens are safer.”

Bottom line: Don’t ruin a sunny day with a bad SPF

With so many formulas in the market, reading the label and understanding your skin’s needs is more crucial than ever. Skip trendy packaging and buzzy claims—because a sunscreen that doesn’t work is more risky than not using one at all.

Dermatologist-approved SPF recommendations

For daily wear

Fixderma Shadow Sunscreen, ₹595

Dr. Sheth's Ceramide & Vitamin C Sunscreen, ₹449

For dry skin:

Bioderma Photoderm Creme SPF 50+, ₹1,099

 

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Sunscreen, ₹1,899

 

Augustinus Bader The Sunscreen SPF 50, ₹12,600

For oily skin:

La Shield SPF 40 PA+++ Mineral Sunscreen Gel, ₹765

Photostable Gold Matte Finish Sunscreen Gel | PA+++ SPF 55, ₹779

Isdin Fusion Water SPF 50+, ₹2,190

For pigmented skin:

UV Doux Blue Light Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA+++, ₹809

 

Bioderma Aquafluide Tinted SPF 50, ₹1,849

All Images: Pexels

Also read: The new ColorBar is here, heralding an era of hyper-inclusive beauty

Aslo read: These high-performance skincare serums are like Botox in a bottle