Kanika Goyal on her inaugural showcase at the London Fashion Week 2024

Born and raised in Chandigarh, Kanika Goyal has always had a thing for fashion. After studying at the National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, and later at Parsons School of Design, New York, she honed her skills—prioritising quality and detail along with crucial business aspects of fashion—during apprenticeships at some of the biggest names in the industry like Prada, Marchesa, and the Adidas Group, to name a few. Now, at her eponymous brand, the designer creates clothes perfect for those who are confident, stylish, and effortlessly cool. One thing’s for sure—she’s a powerhouse in the Indian fashion space.

Cosmo: Tell us about your preparation for your inaugural showcase at the London Fashion Week (LFW) last moth. 

Kanika Goyal: “I felt grateful to showcase our (Kanika Goyal Label’s) craftsmanship globally. Selling on a global scale requires understanding diverse buying patterns, aligning with the brand ethos, and delivering quality products. Prioritising innovation and sustainability is key and having a team that can translate your vision is crucial too.”

C: How did you conceptualise your LFW collection and what were the trend forecasts?

KG: “Arc Echo, our AW’24 collection, was conceptualised as an exploration into the fragmented nature of memories and the interweaving of past and future experiences, drawing inspiration from the ethereal realm where memories converge. It aimed to evoke déjà vu and reflects diverse facets of the wearer’s personality, emphasising introspection and self-reflection.”

C: What is your approach to your collections?

KG: “KGL’s approach always centres on emotion, and exploring the link between fashion and psychology. I have always found myself fascinated by the complexity of the human brain, we metaphorically incorporate specific emotions into each collection. Referencing the carefree ’70s, we blend elevated construction with surreal, euphoric elements, using humour to communicate our contemporary values and ideas.”

C: Walk us through your creative process—from the initial idea to the final runway presentation—when starting a new collection.

KG: “The process is very seamless and organic, and involves us evolving from our signature styles and well-received products. We experiment with new techniques each season, focusing on print and surface direction for global and primary markets. Uninfluenced by current trends, we aim to encourage outspokenness, crafting narratives that appeal to the Internet and the age of social media.”

C: How do you integrate sustainable practices in your process?

KG: “Our conscious approach extends from ethical internal practices to ensuring eco-friendly raw materials. We upcycle discarded fabrics and leather (especially denim), and incorporate surplus leftovers (into their collection). Our process minimises water wastage. A circular mindset guides every production step, designing products to help our customers care for our products for a longer period of time, promoting versatile wear; ultimately looping them back into the circle of sustainability.”

C: Have you started using Artificial Intelligence (AI) as well?

KG: “I am dabbling in AI a bit, but my creative process is deeply personal. While I understand and appreciate the benefits of AI to streamline operations, I cherish the hands-on, tactile essence of planning, designing, and creating.”

C: How do you believe authority and power dynamics manifest in the world of fashion design? Also, how does your creative process respond to such influences?

KG: “Fashion’s power dynamics, shaped by established houses and trends, influence what’s deemed worthy. I approach design as a form of storytelling, aiming to challenge the existing power structures and redefine the boundaries of influence within the industry. My creative process navigates tradition seeking fresh perspectives and storytelling to challenge norms, redefines influence boundaries, and embraces inclusivity.”

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