I have a very regimented hair wash routine. I’ll cleanse every three days, then I let my hair air-dry and allow my natural waves to do their thing for about a day, then for a couple of days I’ll slick my strands back until it’s time to wash again. So, if you do the math, for more than half the year my hair is in a tight ponytail, which is a slightly alarming statistic to think about. And especially during summer, that number is closer to every single day, since the style is so versatile and ideal for keeping my hair off the back of my neck. And while I’m devoted to the sleek updo for disguising my greasy strands, it can actually damage hair if not styled and cared for correctly (which I'm sadly already seeing the effects of at age 26). Luckily, I spoke with celebrity hairstylist Marc Ballance for his tips on avoiding damage when styling your hair into an updo. “If you love wearing slick-backs, you don’t have to stop wearing them,” he assures. “Just don’t wear the same ones every day, avoid making them painfully tight, and prioritize keeping your hair healthy.” If you’re anything like me and refuse to give up the updo, keep reading for Ballance’s expert tips and recommendations on styling slick backs with minimal damage. Can slicked-back ponytails cause hair loss? Unfortunately, tight updos “Can cause traction alopecia, which is hair loss caused by the hair consistently pulled tight from the root over a long time period, weakening the hair follicle and leading to thinning hair, especially around the hairline,” Ballance explains. “The tighter the style and the more often you wear it, the greater the risk of damage, of course.” So yes, your beloved sleek updo may do more harm than good, but keep reading for ways to avoid damage plus the hairstylist-loved products to prevent breakage. Common slick-back mistakes that damage hair Having your ponytail sit in the same spot “The biggest mistake I see people make is wearing the exact same tight hairstyle every single day,” Ballance says. “Constantly pulling the hair back in the same way daily puts stress on the same follicles repeatedly which leads to damage.” His solution: Alternating between higher, lower, and looser styles to give your hair the break it needs. Not to mention, it mixes up your look! Putting your hair up when it’s still wet Another common culprit to hair damage is pulling the hair back tight when it’s not fully dry. “Wet hair is more vulnerable to stretching and snapping, so it’s much easier to cause breakage.” A quick 10-minute rough blow-dry before slicking your hair back will make all the difference. If you’re more of a ponytail devotee on day two or three, then you’re in the clear. How to style a slicked-back ponytail without breakage As Ballance mentioned, you don’t have to give up the style altogether (thank goodness); it’s just important to have the correct tools to make sure you’re not tugging, ripping, and drying out the hair. Opt for nourishing styling products While, yes, using a gel or wax stick creates that super-sleek and coveted polished effect, Ballance says “these will give your hair a more brittle feel and leave it prone to damage.” “A slightly softer finish is much healthier for your hair in the long term,” he explains. Instead, try using a hair mask, wand, or styling balm that will keep your strands in place while simultaneously nourishing the hair. “Choose smoothing products that allow the brush to glide through the hair,” Ballance adds. Invest in great brushes It’s best to use a classic brush for untangling the hair and pulling it all up, then a boar-bristle brush will be your best friend for creating a smooth, bump-free finish. Ballance loves “Mason Pearson brushes for creating a polished look, and Tangle Teezer if you want something that’s especially gentle on the hair.” Choose the right hair tie “I’d avoid elastics with metal joins, as they can snag and break the hair,” Ballance says. As someone with super thick hair and a good amount of it, I love L. Erickson’s ponytails for their ability to keep all my strands firmly in place without any tugging or pulling, or go for a silk scrunchie for an extra-soft hold.
