Have we finally entered a ‘filler fatigue’ era?

Ariana Grande, Kylie Jenner, Cardi B—who we’d bestow the honorary title of unrealistic beauty standards—are now turning against dermal fillers, and this poses a pertinent question: Is Instagram face out? Hear, hear! While the dichotomy is alive and well, more women have begun abandoning their facial fillers in pursuit of ageing on their own terms, and Cosmo stands in full support.

“Gone are the days of ‘pillow face’; celebrities who previously embraced the plump, youthful aesthetic are now seeking a more raw and real appeal... they realised they overdid it, and that less is more. Others are following suit,” says Dr Jaishree Sharad, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist and medical director, Skinfinitii Aesthetic & Laser Clinic.

For years, women bought into the belief that they have an expiration date; God forbid a fine line surfaces or the jowls become more prominent. But the tide has turned—slowly, but surely. After over three decades of excessive hyaluronic acid use, ‘filler fatigue’ seems to have set in... compelling celebrities to renounce their plumped visage and opt for an au naturel appeal.

For the uninitiated, ‘filler fatigue’ refers to a phenomenon where an overindulgence in dermal fillers leads to decreased efficacy, increased resistance, and potentially adverse skin effects. “Statistics indicate that 70 per cent of patients report decreased filler efficacy over time (American Society of Plastic Surgeons, 2020), while 40 per cent experience filler fatigue within 2-5 years (Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2019). We’re in the midst of a paradigm shift...a ‘natural-not-overdone’ aesthetic is prevailing,” claims Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, cosmetologist and founder, Isaac Luxe™.

Post filler removal—via enzymatic dissolution, a surgical excision, or laser—expect to experience mild swelling and bruising, which should subside within a day or two. “In more grave cases, an asymmetrical or irregular result can occur if the enzyme doesn’t dissolve the filler evenly, leaving one side of the face looking hollow or deflated—a ramification seen more commonly among those who’ve got multiple filler treatments over the years,” Dr Sharad explains.

In the same breath, she makes a solid case for allowing fillers to dissolve naturally. “Let the body take over and metabolise the filler, avoiding the need for further injectables or treatments. As the filler breaks down bit by bit, changes to facial volume and appearance will be subtle and more gradual...essentially, less noticeable.” Although she is quick to point out that this natural breakdown process won’t work in the case of over-filling.

Post-procedure care? Steer clear of alcohol and strenuous physical activity for the first 24 hours. Apply mild pressure to the affected area, avoiding extreme cold or heat compression. And if you observe an irregularity in filler dissolution, visit your dermatologist stat.

Back in 2019—in the wake of the ‘rich girl face’ trend—we’d get why you’d go under the needle. But if “We’re in the midst of a paradigm shift…a ‘natural-not-overdone’ aesthetic is prevailing.” —Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta you’re now looking to start over, and are concerned that your decision to pull back will leave you in the lurch, you must know that alternatives to counter skin sagging exist.

“Sign up for boosters such as profhilo, polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) injections, vampire facials, microneedling, high-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) or thread lifts instead,” says Dr Sharad. “Emface—the first-ever, FDA approved non-surgical device—is a new-age treatment that works with radiofrequency (RF) and high-intensity focused electromagnetic field (HIFEM) technology to boost collagen and lift the skin sans needles,” Dr Mittal adds.

As the beauty landscape evolves and patient preferences change, the dilemma deepens. It is a matter of making the right decision for you. “The adage goes, ‘If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.’” So, according to Dr Sharad, if you’re planning on using the ‘tool’— injectables, in this case—ensure you do it the right way…and in the right quantity to enhance your facial features without looking overdone.

Lead image credit: Pexels

Body images credit: Shutterstock and Getty Images 

This article first appeared in Cosmopolitan India, November-December 2024, print edition.

Also read: Do you really need lip fillers?

Also read: Ariana Grande revealed why she stopped using injectables like filler and botox