Everything you need to know about dark spots before you try to fade them

You know discolouration as the dark spots that creep up out of nowhere to camp out on your face. They’re very common and totally normal, but they can also be extremely stubborn—and frustrating. Which is why, if you’d like to treat yours, you need this comprehensive info. Here’s how to kick ’em out for good.

Melasma

What it looks like 

It shows up as brownish or greyish patches that appear most often on your cheeks, nose, chin, forehead, or the area above your upper lip, says dermatologist Uchenna Okereke, MD.

Why it happens

Sun exposure and hormones, mostly—hence why you may hear melasma called a “sunstache” or a “pregnancy mask.” Other culprits include birth control pills, inflammation, excessive heat, and genetics.

Who gets it

About 90 per cent of people with melasma are women, mostly in their 20s to 40s, says Dr Okereke. And “people with darker skin tones have more active melanin producing cells in their skin, making them more prone to melasma.” (Melanin, FYI, is the thing that gives colour to your skin and hair).

Your DIY Game Plan

“It’s all about building a routine for your skin type and the kind of hyperpigmentation you have, and then being consistent with that routine,” says dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD. That starts with being religious about these four steps:

Step 1

Cleanse

Ditch the harsh scrubs and stripping washes (reminder: Inflammation can trigger hyperpigmentation) for a gentle, sulphate-free option.

TRY Dot & Key Barrier Repair + Hydrating Gentle Face Wash, ₹375

Step 2

Treat

This is where your serums with active ingredients (like vitamin C, retinol, and niacinamide) come into play. For melasma:

TRY The Derma Co. 10% Niacinamide Face Serum, ₹849 for PIH and sun spots

TRY Asaya Advanced Spot Targeting Serum, ₹799

Step 3

Moisturise

Hydrated skin is happier and healthier, and has a stronger skin barrier, all of which are key to minimise hyperpigmentation. Keep things simple—and effective—with a lightweight lotion that has hyaluronic acid and ceramides. They’ll draw moisture to your skin and lock it in for hours.

TRY CeraVe Moisturising Lotion, ₹1,100

Step 4

Protect

If you’re not committed to daily sunscreen, whatever else you’re doing to treat your hyperpigmentation is pointless, since UV is one of its main causes. “Find a formula you like that’s got SPF 30 or more and stick to it,” says dermatologist Jennifer David, DO.

TRY La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+, ₹1,400

The most common causes of dark spots are sun exposure, physical injury (cuts, bruises, picking at your zits), and genetics (ty, Mom and Dad!).

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

What it looks like

Dark spots, streaks, or lingering marks that show up exactly where your skin has been irritated, inflamed, or injured—think acne scars, bug bites, rashes, or eczema flare-ups—says dermatologist Jason Emer, MD.

Why it happens

The clue is in the name. When your skin experiences trauma, it triggers inflammation, which can cause melanin to be overproduced or unevenly distributed. That excess pigment is what leaves behind a visible mark long after the original issue has healed, explains dermatologist Jennifer David, DO.

Who gets it

PIH is more common in people of colour, particularly those with sensitive or acne-prone skin, but it can affect anyone, says Dr David. The more inflammation your skin goes through, the higher your chances of seeing these spots stick around.

Sun Spots

What they look like

Small tan or brown spots—usually about the size of a pencil eraser—that pop up on areas exposed to the sun most often, like your face, chest, shoulders, and hands, says Dr David.

Why they happen

They’re the result of cumulative sun exposure over time. That includes both intense UV exposure (hello, beach holidays) and everyday, incidental exposure—like walking to work or sitting by a window while driving. Over the years, all that unprotected sun adds up, and these spots can start appearing as early as your 20s.

Who gets them

People with lighter skin tones are at a higher risk, but anyone who skips regular sunscreen use can develop sun spots, regardless of skin colour.

Images: Shutterstock 

This article first appeared in Cosmopolitan India's November-December 2025 print edition.

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