The glossy truth about gel nails (it’s not all cute and cured)

A young girl consistently applied gel manicures for three years. The results? “Severe nail splitting, peeling, and itching around the cuticles and fingertips. Her nails were thin and discoloured, indicating significant nail plate dehydration,” shares expert dermatologist, Dr Madhuri Agarwal.

Her patient is not alone. According to a survey conducted to study the aftermath of using gel polish, 48.3 per cent of the respondents reported side effects during the application, and over 75 per cent reported side effects after removal. 

But, what is it about gel polish that has thrust upon it this alleged devilish persona? “Traditional manicures employ nail polish that "air-dries", typically lasting only a few days. Conversely, gel manicures utilise a liquid gel polish that is “cured” or hardened under UV or LED light, resulting in a robust, chip-resistant finish that can endure for two to three weeks,” explains Dr Agarwal. So far, so good.

But there’s a twist in the tale, as this durability comes at the heavy cost of dermatology, with the after-effects often lasting longer than the polish itself. Let’s break it down. 

Cure the manicure

Regular application, such as in Dr Agarwal’s client’s case, alongside improper removal of gel polish, may cause brittle, thin, and peeling nails. The agony continues with prolonged acetone soaks, which can dehydrate the nail plate, leading to dryness and brittleness. And, as Dr Agarwal puts it, all of this weakens the nail plate, creating easy entry points for bacterial or fungal infections.

To widen our understanding, we reached out to a professional straight from the field: celebrity nail artist Anisha Mulchandani, founder of Studio Nails. Mulchandani, whose clientele boasts the best of Bollywood, including Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Alia Bhatt, Deepika Padukone, Kiara Advani and more, clarifies, “It’s a myth that gel ruins your nails. The truth is that improper removal ruins nails, not the gel itself. When applied and removed professionally, gel polish is safe and highly effective. However, improper removal or aggressive buffing can lead to thinning or peeling. This is why aftercare and skilled application are non-negotiable”. 

The effects, though, run deeper, stealthily seeping into widespread dermatological arenas, as explained by Dr Agarwal: “The opaque nature and long wear of gel polish can conceal underlying nail issues too, delaying diagnosis and treatment. Acrylate chemicals, particularly HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate), are common allergens and can cause redness, itching, swelling, or blistering around the nails, fingertips, or eyelids if touched."

Smooth operator (not)

But wait, there’s more. We’ve only scratched the surface (pun intended) here, as the implications of gel polish’s antihero, UV light, have yet to be assessed.

Dr Agarwal sheds light on the details, explaining how the UV light used to seal the deal, primarily emits UVA radiation. And while the exposure during each manicure session is relatively short, cumulative exposure over many years can pose a risk of skin ageing (wrinkles, sunspots) and, theoretically, increase the risk of skin cancer.

“The absolute risk, though, is still being studied and is considered low compared to tanning beds or prolonged sun exposure,” Dr Agarwal points out. 

Meanwhile, frequently used LED lamps also emit ultraviolet (UV) radiation, though typically at a more concentrated wavelength and with reduced curing times. But, don’t be fooled by this mellow stature, as despite an expedited curing process, LED lamps are not safer. After all, they, too, emit UV radiation.

“Thus, the risk is not entirely mitigated,” warns Dr Agarwal. “Individuals who frequently receive gel manicures over many years should be mindful of the additional UV exposure, which may contribute to premature ageing and increase the risk of skin cancer, especially in areas, such as the hands, that are particularly susceptible to sun damage”.

Mani-fest that cure

Circling back to Dr Agarwal’s client, she shares the recovery process prescribed to her. First and foremost, gel manicures were stopped. “Then, we applied a topical steroid for dermatitis, with the regular use of rich emollients and cuticle oil. Recovery took several months for both the nails and dermatitis to improve, demonstrating that cumulative exposure can result in physical nail damage and allergic reactions.”

The best way to dilute the effects of gel manicures is to first approach the right professional, who knows their way with the brush, from bottle to buffing. Mulchandani, for instance, follows a strict gel manicure protocol for her clients.

It all begins with a comprehensive nail assessment and shape consultation, followed by a cuticle cleanup using Russian techniques, and buffing and dehydration of the nail plate for effective adhesion. Then, a base gel layer is applied using LED curing methods, followed by two layers of gel polish (cured for one minute each), and a final top coat application for long-lasting shine and seal. Finally, vitamin-rich oils are used for cuticle nourishment, followed by a conclusive hand massage using hydrating hand creams. 

To further curb the aftermath of the polish, Dr Agarwal suggests using our trusted pal, a broad-spectrum sunscreen (with an SPF of 30 or higher), on the hands, 20 minutes prior to the manicure. “Also, consider wearing fingerless gloves that only leave the nails exposed,” she advises. And since prevention is better than a cure, Dr Agarwal suggests limiting the frequency of gel manicures to minimise cumulative UV exposure.

Additionally, nail enthusiasts must avoid excessive buffing, which can weaken the nail. “Never peel off gel polish,” adds Mulchandani. Strongly in agreement, Dr Agarwal adds, “Ensure the removal is gentle and done by professionals only, or this can also damage layers of the natural nail. “A soak-off removal with acetone is preferable, ideally performed by a trained professional. After this, it is beneficial to moisturise your nails and cuticles with a rich cream or cuticle oil,” she reasons. 

Pro tips for your fingertips

A period of two to four weeks between gel manicure sessions is recommended to allow for full nail recovery. Also, keep an eye out for notorious ingredients when handpicking products.

Dr Agarwal lists the good, bad and ugly for us: “Seek out brands that advertise as 'three-free', 'five-free', 'seven-free', or '10-free',  which signifies that they exclude commonly found toxic chemicals in some polishes. This typically refers to traditional nail polish toxins such as formaldehyde, toluene, and DBP (dibutyl phthalate); however, certain cleaner gel brands also avoid specific problematic acrylates. In particular, for gel products, it is advisable to choose brands that are HEMA-free, as HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a frequent cause of allergic contact dermatitis related to gel products.”
 
Mulchandani, leaning on her expertise, shares her brand recommendations with us. “There’s DND  for its nail-friendly formulas and VETTSY for HEMA-free options. I also like BLUESKY for their range of colours and longevity. Each brand we use is tested for performance and nail safety. 

Putting “sense” into sensitivity 

It is worth noting that individuals with sensitive skin are more likely to develop allergic contact dermatitis from the acrylate chemicals in gel polishes. Dr Agarwal says, “Pre-existing skin conditions, such as eczema or psoriasis, may be worsened by the chemicals or trauma to the nail unit. Those with brittle, thin, or already damaged nails are at an increased risk of further weakening due to the dehydrating effects of acetone and the aggressive filing that can occur.”

The insistence on relying on professional expertise is key here, as at-home gel kits can lead to rookie mistakes and permanent damage in the years to come. For instance, beginners may skip nail prep altogether. “They may also unintentionally flood the cuticles with polish, leading to lifting. Not to mention over-buffing the nail plate, and using non-acetone removers or peeling gel off forcefully– the worst thing one can do!” warns Mulchandani.

“It’s also a myth that gels do not allow your nails to breathe. Nails are not living tissue—they don’t breathe. Health depends on correct preparation, application, removal and aftercare.” Duly noted.

Lead image: Alia Bhatt, Kiara Advani/Instagram

Also Read: 7 LED light therapy beauty devices you need to try stat!

Also Read: Thousands of weight-loss injection users say hair loss is excessive – here's what a doctor thinks